Saturday, July 14, 2012

The Unbearable Lightness of Being (an Ex-Pat)


"Our roots can go anywhere and we can survive, because if you think about it, we take our roots with us. You can go back to where they are and they can be less real to you than they were three thousand, six thousand miles away. The essential thing is to have the feeling that they exist, that they are somewhere."

-Gertrude Stein

There’s something invigorating about moving abroad. Moving someplace where no one knows you and where no one has any expectations of you gives you a certain freedom to reinvent your conception of self. When your only real responsibility abroad is to make enough cash to keep living abroad, you find yourself abroad doing and thinking things quite out of character. You’re high on the thrill of having moved to a strange country and wresting a life for yourself from the chaos: a job, an apartment, some friends. On top of this you’re surrounded by a foreign culture, speaking a language you have imperfect command of, watching the people around you do things that, from your limited outsider’s perspective, seem illogical or even insane. In this new context you feel as if you can be and do whatever you want. The gravity has been sucked out of your life and you’re floating in space, comforted by the complete lack of consequences.

This may seem like a bourgeois conception of what it is to live overseas and it probably is. Yet it is something experienced by those with the privilege to immigrate for pleasure rather than necessity. It can be like returning to summer camp or university. And like both it can attract both those with the desire to grow from living in a different context and also those with the chronic fear of ever growing up. You have the honor students, who stayed for a few years and learned what they can and then moved on, and you have the super-seniors, still teaching English and crawling through the ex-pat bars. We all hope to be the former, though what we learn from a modest amount of crawling can be instructive as well.

For my first four or five months in Turkey I was almost almost continuously depressed. I was working a shitty job and feeling very restricted, but I was also contending with the initial, unavoidable homesickness. I was prepared for this feeling. I had left behind a good life in Santa Cruz, the fruit of relationships and connections grown over six years. I knew I would miss my friends, my family, the life I had built for myself. I knew also that I would curse myself for leaving, convince myself it had been craziness, and have to restrain myself from buying an early ticket home. All this happened and  I was ready for it when it did. 

What I wasn’t prepared for was being homesick for myself. Missing the person I was in California. So much of who we are is related to environment, the place where we find ourselves and the people we are surrounded by. I think there are unchanging aspects of our characters and personalities, but these are related more to our fundamental attitude towards life. Whereas most of our interests, concerns, and preoccupations change countless times before we die. Sometimes we are ready to shed the old, but don’t realize that the people or places we love are swaddling us in garments we have outgrown. Then we are separated from those people or places and find ourselves standing naked and cold in a new world where everything – the sun, the wind - feels different. It’s scary and it hurts, so we find ourselves longing to go back to the warmth and comfort of before.

But there’s no going back. I spent the first few months growing slowly strange to myself, looking in the mirror and sometimes being unable to recognize the person there. So much of what I concerned myself with before seemed suddenly so pointless, so short-sighted and irrelevant. Without those props, though, I didn’t know who I was. Eventually I began to trust, to lean into that vulnerability and unknowing and trust that by letting go of who I was before I was making room from someone new to arrive.

It wasn’t all easy, and I spent a lot of time alone at home confused, or drinking more than I ever have before, not giving a damn, partying until the first ezan and then working ten hours. And a lot of it was perfect and blissful and fun – so many incredible and memorable nights with my best friends - but some of it was just treading water in the dark. Trying to escape the unknowing. But if I still don’t know totally who I am or what I want (who does?) I at least know more about what I’m not. I left a lot of things behind in California and I realize now that it was time. Living thousands of miles away showed me who I am when everything I know has disappeared, about what remains, my core, the still point in the spinning. And as gravity begins to settle around me and objects fall into their proper place, I hope I can continue moving in this knowledge, the knowledge that living so far from everything helped me to gain.

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